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Anti-sway Bar End Link
"Zero-load" Adjustment
by Dave Lemon
mail@mazdatrix.com
Pre-load in sway bars generates extremely differing handling characteristics between left or right turns (especially at corner entry phase). Depending on which way the bar is out of adjustment, it (the bar AND the car) will think it is already leaning into the turn so it will twist the bar more, or it will be starting with a "twist", then go to neutral bar load, then go to twist. You can see how the amount of load transfer for a left vs. right turn of the same speed, radius, degree of lean, conditions, etc. would be very different. The solution is simply to be sure the bar(s) have no pre-load on level ground, with the driver (or someone/something of same weight) in the seat.
Procedure: Disconnect one link of front and rear bars. Set car on level ground with driver in. The link(s) that were disconnected should be able to be reinstalled without pulling or pushing the bar end up or down.
'79-'85 Front:
The adjustment is done by adding washers to the tube the long bolt goes through or cutting the tube shorter, whatever is needed to be able to hook the link back up. These are a little hard to do, because you are somewhat guessing on the crush amount of the bushings.
79-85 Rear (stock bar links):
Same procedure as above.
'79-'85 Rear with Suspension Techniques bar:
These have a rod-end/bolt combo that can be made longer or shorter as needed to get the bolt to slip through easily.
'86-'95 Stock Links:
Not much that can easily be done.
'86-'95 With adjustable links:
These have bolts going horizontal through the ends. Just adjust the length of the disconnected link to where the bolt slides through easily.
Yes, this is normally all done laying on cold cement floors. We usually put the car on a hoist first to disconnect the links, and be sure everything will turn/slip/adjust OK, then put it on the ground, bounce it a bunch of times, roll it back and forth, etc., then start adjusting. Be sure the steering is straight ahead.
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