Steering Box & Column Replacement II
   anonymous author

[This is the same topic that is covered by the article Steering Box & Column Replacement, only by a different author. Rotary Rocket felt the two articles were different enough that someone attempting the procedure might benefit from reading both.]

First off, I will give the instructions that are in the Chilton's repair manual #8581 (credit where credit is due):

The Installation of the steering gear requires the use of a dial indicator, a column shaft attachment (49-0180-510A or equivelent) and a spring scale. (I didn't need or use either.)

1. Remove steering wheel.

2. Remove the column covers.

3. Remove the combination switch assembly.

4. Remove the steering lock and ignition switch assembly.

5. Remove the steering column support bracket. Mark the relationship of the hood hinges and remove the hood.

6. Raise and support the vehicle safely.

7. Remove the front wheel (driver's side).

8. Remove the cotterpin and nut, then disconnect the center link from the pitman arm using a ball joint puller.

9. Unbolt the steering gear from the frame, taking note of the presence of any shims for realigning the gear with the shaft.

10. Remove the steering column dust cover, then remove the gear housing, column jacket and aligning shim through the engine compartment.

   That is the removal according to the book. What it does not mention is that if you have A/C you will have to remove the pump and the hoses, as well as the A/C pump brackets. Someone out there may have a trick to doing this without losing all the freon in the A/C system, but I didn't find it. Now I am going to add my notes to each step here. These are in addition to the items above.

1. I found that the standard wheel puller just stripped the holes that the bolts go into to pull the steering wheel so I added a washer and nut to the inside of the wheel pulling bolts for extra strength. I also found that the steering wheel bows a little under the stress of pulling it so I had to bend it back into shape using a 3 pound sledge and a thick rubber pad (to protect the finish on the wheel).

2. These are all the little covers, etc. that are under the column that are held in place by phillips screws.

3. There is a tab on the top of the assembly that you must squeeze to remove this. I didnt find out about it until I had forced the assembly off, but at least if you are reading this you will be aware of it.

4. This was a real bear. The factory nuts have no slots, etc. to get ahold of. What I did was to take my dremel and cut slots into the existing bolts so I could pull them, and I replaced them with hex head bolts of the appropriate size. Even then It took some twisting and turning of the column to get the ignition switch off and back on correctly. The ignition has to be turned on so that you can remove the assembly from the column due to the lock pin that it sticks out.

5. I thought I could get away with out removing the hood by going in from underneath. Forget it. The hood has to come off. I used a yellow wax pencil to mark the hinge and bolt locations on the hood. It made re-installation a breeze. Also, you will need to note the orientation of the column bracket when you remove it. It will fit back on either way, but if it is backwards you won't be able to adjust the column so the gap is correct when you reinstall the steering wheel.

6. We all know how to do this and it is important because you are doing quite a bit of push and shove at first.

7. Just like changing the tire.

8. This is fairly straight forward, and you will need the pickle fork. It cost me about $11.00 at the local autoparts store.

9. You will need a 14mm wrench and a 14mm socket to do this. The bolt heads are in the wheel well, and the nuts are on the steering gear. I didn't find any shims, but you might, so look sharp.

10. The column cover will come out with a good tug from inside the car.

From the Book again:

Reinstallation:

1. Bolt the steering gear assembly in place, then position the shim in its original position for realignment. Do not connect the center link to the pitman arm at this time.

2. Connect the Pitman arm to the selector shaft by aligning the matching serrations on the arm with those on the shaft. Torque the pitman arm to 108-130 ft.-lbs. (146-176 Nm)

3. Adjust the sector gear and rack backlash as follows.

   1. Grasp the sector shaft and move it side to side several times to make sure that it turns freely without binding. Then move the pitman arm to the center (neutral) position of its travel.

   2. Mount a dial indicator to the pitman arm end and adjust the backlash of the pitman arm by turning the adjusting screw in or out until the reading on the dial indicator is zero (no backlash).

   3. Once the backlash is set, tighten the adjusting screw locknut to retain the adjustment.

4. Install the steering lock and combination switch assemblies.

5. Fit attachment 49-0180-510A or its equivalent to the end of the column shaft and connect a spring scale to the attachment. Pull on the spring scale to measure the worm shaft preload. The preload should be 1.32-2.65 lbs. Connect the pitman arm center link.

6. Install the steering column covers and the steering wheel. Fill the steering gear housing with A.P.I. GL4, SAE 90 lubricant if the old fluid was drained. Check the front end alignment.

And now back to my comments:

1. Before you do this you have to get the shaft back into the the car. I kept hitting the brake pedal when I tried this alone so I got my kid brother to come hold the break pedal in for a couple of moments while I inserted the column.

2. I did not perform steps 2, 3, and 5 (except reconnecting the Pitman arm) because I was installing a used column from the local recycling yard that is dedicated to Mazdas (they check the mechanical stuff out before they are willing to sell it).

3. This is almost as much fun as taking them out, though you will have a good idea of what you are doing when they go back together.

4. Make sure that your wheels are facing forward so that you can get the steering wheel on straight. I then took the car to the local alignment shop and let them align it. It only cost $40.00 and was worth the peace of mind of knowing it was done right.

5. Don't forget to reinstall the AC and anything else you might have run into.