Gas Tank Removal
   by Russ Porter
   russ@capitalnet.co

   I've changed my gas tank twice, and have the procedure down pretty well. Here is how I did it the second time.

1. Empty the gas tank. Either run it dry, or drain it with the drain plug in the center of the tank. I believe that older versions ('79-'80) do not have a drain plug, though. It is awkward to move it around even when empty. I did my first removal with about an eighth of a tank, and it came down pretty fast. Empty is better. Have a big pail, and be ready to reinstall the plug if your pail fills up. I put the fuel in my other car.
   
   

2. Remove the 3 screws that hold the filler neck to the body at the gas cap. Remove the gas cap.
   
   

3. There is a plastic cover behind the drivers side rear tire. Behind it is the wiring for the fuel sender unit. If you have good access you can reach up and unplug the connector without removing the tire or plastic cover. I did the work using jack stands and a floor jack under the differential as backup, so I did not have good access. Remove the drivers side rear wheel. Remove the screws holding the plastic cover on, and remove it. Carefully unplug the connector, both of mine were fragile, and corrosion had seized the connector.
   
   

4. Mark the position and function of the fuel lines going to the tank. There should be three.
      a. Fuel Out
      b. Return Fuel
      c. Vent Line
   
   

5. Remove the 3 lines that you just marked. Get the pail first though, for some fuel will piss out (the Fuel Out line contains fuel all the way up to the engine).
   
   

6. Remove the screws holding the heat shield and splash shields, and remove the shields.
   
   

7. Remove the bolts holding the straps that support the tank at the front. Remove the front bolts. There are support hooks built into the straps. If your car is like mine, these hooks engage as the bolt is removed. The tank should not fall on your head. If it does, then your car is different.
   
   

8. The tank will have dropped about an inch and be resting on the hook built into the strap. Push up on the tank and push the strap up and out of the hook. After both straps are released the tank will be free for removal.

   It may be stuck up there; a little wiggle and it will fall free. If you left gas in it, it will come down quickly! The fuel filler neck will probably be caught up when you pull out the tank. Just jockey with it and carefully pull it out. I can not stress enough that the tank should be drained, for it is damn heavy and on jack stands there just is not a lot of room to goof around.

   Installation is the opposite of removal (I hate that when they say that). Don't forget the foam pad on top of the tank. If it is loose, tape or glue it on, for it will move during installation if you don't. It can be difficult to get the filler neck assembly up there, but just reach up and bend the neck around the obstructions. The nice part of removing the front strap bolts comes in now. Push the tank up into place and just grab the strap and push it up until it engages the hook. Relax and do the other. Now just tighten the bolts.

   The only other thing that I can think of is that I disconnected the fuel lines after I dropped the tank the second time. This might not be a good idea if your tank has fuel in it, for you could bend the lines if it pulls down too hard. It made getting at the clamps much easier.

   While you are doing all of this, it is a perfect time to change the fuel filter just ahead of the tank. Also, replace the hose clamps with worm gear clamps.

   Both of my tanks had rusted out at the seam at the rear drivers side corner. I finally got a recoated used tank, and all is fine.